We're not in Kansas anymore...
Well, aside from the fact that an entire car can fit into some of the city potholes, hundreds of gas powered generators kick on at the same time during the daily power outages and everyone LOVES Americans, it feels like any other major capital city. But seriously, my first 5 days here have been wonderful. Very different from my usual pace of arriving in a new city/country and having to cram in as much activity as possible before I quickly leave. I figure 2 years will be plenty to explore this town that you can basically walk from one side to the other or take a car driving 3 hours from one border to the next. And did you know that to call me you technically need to dial the country code for Monaco since Kosovo is not officially recognized as a country? (so it has to borrow excess capacity from the kingdom)
Logistically speaking, everything has worked out great. My 250lbs of checked luggage made it all the way through the chaos of London's Gatwick although my chapstick did not. 24 hours after my departure I was greeted by a smiling company driver and nice offers from all the young guys trying to sell me a pack of cigarettes for 40cents (Marlboro Red). I have subsequently learned that EVERYONE smokes here all the time. Since the weather is still nice enough for us to sit outside and eat/drink at the cafes, it is not too bad. I've been warned that the winter can be long, hard and hazardous to your heath since no place has indoor filters.
As we approached downtown Prishtina, I felt like I was back in DC during the good old days as I was greeted by a massive poster of Bill Clinton opening his arms to all the clogged traffic paralyzing Bil Klinton Road. And my small hotel offers all the modern amenities including the ever popular pink wall color, a dial-up internet connection and one light bulb to share among 3 lamps depending on what room I'm in. The very quiet street and nice views of the small family gardens were somewhat tarnished by the close proximity to the downtown mosque with its 4:30am call to prayer.
The weekend weather was perfect as I wandered the streets, shopped for apartments, met with my boss and hung out with a new friend learning all about the history and cultural nuances of my new home. I even hooked up with a good group of expats to play a mean game of ultimate Frisbee. Since the government is run by the UN there are more white NGO trucks cruising the city than cars. And with NATO forces patrolling the countryside, most of them basing their R&R in Prishtina has created its own mini-industry of restaurants and clubs for the expats. As most of you know for my earlier travels, I will be embedding myself in the local community and hopefully not frequenting these establishments too often.
If all things go well, I have found a relatively nice flat to rent on the 4th floor of a building up on the hill where I work but looking out over the entire city. Since my balcony surrounds my entire unit I plan on many a sunset cocktails (at least over the next 2 weeks before winter sets in). Aside from having to inspect and question about all the standard apt. questions, I needed to inquire on what electric grid the building was coded (which determines how often your power goes out), make sure a back-up inverter is set-up to provide light for a couple bulbs when there is no electricity and to insist on having gas powered heaters in case we lose power for extended periods of time so I don't freeze during the winter. Sounds great eh? Well I have a full fitness gym in the basement as well as a fresh market across the street so if people really hibernate like they say, I'll be well fed and fit:-)
Work has been intense and intimidating. After 2 days I have been set up in a nice office with a staff of two to assist me in my role as Senior Competitiveness Advisor. The notion that I am going to be advising these farming and livestock experts on anything still amazes me but somehow they think I am going to be the deal-maker to assist the organizations' clients take their products to the next level in regional export. The office is located in a very cool 4 store office with a staff of over 30 locals each running their own programs around the country. I have been told I will be on the road a lot and have already been informed of trade shows in Croatia, Albania and Berlin that I will be attending representing our local clients. I am very excited to step up to the plate and figure this out but I'm not suspecting this to be easy. Especially with the deep seated ethnic hatreds that still permeate the region. Blood is thicker than business and it is not often that the Balkans are known to forgive or forget.
Apparently there are a ton of 3 day weekend coming up so I'll be heading to Greece to scuba dive at the end of the month. And then I believe the mountain resort towns after that to kick off ski season. Like I said, we're not in Kansas anymore... -DH
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