Springs (Late) Arrival in Kosovo

Almost! Kosovo is on the verge of exploding into lush green and dazzling colors. If it weren't for those chilled northern winds and the splattering of snow still atop the hills. No matter, my buddy Sander and I decided to stretch our legs for a couple hours east of Mitrovice with the beautiful rolling hills and valley's that cascaded all the way back to Pristina. I am always awe struck once you get away from the towns, trash and pollution at how beautiful the countryside remains. And one of the great benefits to hiking is that you can pretty much see exactly where you want to go and just head there. Even once in the forest there are always dirt roads or animal tracks that will eventually bring you back to a landmark to help you find your way back to the car.

Our timing couldn't have been more perfect either. As we traversed animal tracks and private fields to make it back to our car without walking on the road, we found an unused trail that lead us directly to the vehicle and we arrived exactly as small hail pellets rained down. Huh. Guess we need a couple more weeks before the t-shirts. Well exercised we decided to treat ourselves to the perfect 3 euro fresh trout lunch at a fish farm located right on the Ibri River. Although all the fresh air we had just snorted was immediately canceled by the non-stop chain smoking coming from all the tables we cowered in a corner with a fresh cold beer and our fantastic fish.

Seeing that this was a 3 day weekend for most, we opted to hike with Sander again on Sunday, but this time to the south near Brezovice where we snow-shoed before. The lower elevation valley was turning a nice shade of green but the higher elevations remained bar. Once we arrived at our targeted hiking spot we understood why. It was still darn chilly and actually began to snow on us. So we opted for a nice Machiatto in a wood cabin with stove to debate our next move.

Fortunately we were determined to stretch our legs so after several more hours of driving we found a very hilly, forested area Pranvera used to picnic and swim in as a little girl. Located West of Ferizaj towards Shtime, we parked the car and immediately ascended a track through private property that quickly delivered us atop the first field of wildflowers with incredible views and moments of brilliant sunshine. We just made our way from field to dirt road to trail wandering further up and away from civilization. To no surprise considering the amount of fighting from the war and abandoned damaged homes we came across, we also spotted an incredibly tasteless memorial among the ruins of ancient Turkish graves.

The scenery was so perfect with the flowers everywhere and the birds singing sweat songs that we couldn't resist the moment to get married on the spot. With a homemade princess crown Pranvera and I decided to forgo the formalities of a celebration and have Sander bless us with the power invested by the UN.

Kidding! The thought did cross our mind but what would a wedding be without all of you?? So we just continued on our way coming across one of the most special treats we have yet encountered. A couple local villagers doing some illegal logging with a very testy horse followed by a very frail and poor elder carrying his handmade sheep skin musical accordion. With Pranvera's native tongue ability she was able to coax him into providing us with the most memorable private concert we could have imaged (see video below).

Even the modern building structures in the villages remind you of a time almost forgotten and really made me appreciate the beauty and authenticity of a place I will always call my second home.

Registry for Todd and Pranvera's Kosovo Wedding Ceremony Friday May 9th
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We are very excited to share this event with many friends and family in Kosovo. For everyone in the US, we plan on having a wedding celebration in Washington DC in September and one in St. Louis sometime late October. Once we arrive in our new condo by the end of the summer, we plan to register with the traditional on-line retailers that would allow you to select any gifts that might help us in settling stateside.

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But in the meantime since so many of you have asked what type of gifts we would like for the Kosovo celebration, we have decided that the most practical and much appreciated would be cash that could go directly towards our honeymoon. But rather than leaving it as a generic and impersonal contribution, we have put together a list of specific activities we hope to do while in Thailand along with an approximate cost and website providing details on the adventure. So if you would like to select anyone in particular, we will make sure your present is used for that purpose. And it will be no surprise that we plan to update everyone on the trip of a lifetime upon our return late July.

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In addition there is a painting from Macedonia that Pranvera and I fell in love with that we hope to purchase which will remind us of the wonderful rural landscapes of the Balkans with a string of red peppers drying from the porch in the sun. Your contribution towards this would also be greatly appreciated.

• Purchase a piece from a regional Macedonian painter, Snezana Zafirovska-- 600€
  http://www.macedonianarts.org/wheat.htm

Thailand Honeymoon Adventures:

• Thailand arrival 5-star Thai Dinner Show at the Oriental Hotel, Bangkok--105€
  http://www.mandarinoriental.com/hotel/510000238.asp
• 1 day Elephant and White-water Raft Treks from Chang Mai--54€
  http://www.mandarinoriental.com/hotel/510000238.asp
• 1 day Authentic Thai Cooking Class in Chang Mai--32€
  http://www.chiangdao.com/chiangmai/smartcook.htm
• 3 day Sleep-aboard Boat Snorkel Trip to National Park Island of Similan-400€ http://www.santanaphuket.com/liveaboards/liveaboard.htm
• 1 day Sea Kayak Adventure from Railja Beach--56€
  http://www.railay.com/railay/intro/kayak_intro.shtml
• 1 day Phi-Phi Island Snorkel/lunch Day Trip from Railay Beach --70€
  http://www.railay.com/railay/intro/snorkling_intro.shtml
• PADI Open-water Scuba Dive License for Pranvera in Koh Tao--220€
  http://www.crystaldive.com/
• 10-pack Open-water Fun Scuba Dives in Koh Tao--140€
  http://www.crystaldive.com/course_fun.html
• Couple Spa Treatment Packet at Sanctuary on Koh Pha-Ngan-- 80€
  http://thesanctuarythailand.com/spa.htm

Switzerland In Kosovo

Who would have thought 3 hours drive from Pristina you could enter the (relatively) trash free, rolling hills, winding mountain streams and distant snow-capped mountain peak paradise of Boge? We certainly didn't and although Pranvera has lived most her life in Kosovo had never been to this place. After our exciting engagement week with all (mostly hers) friends and family congratulating and celebrating our engagement (as well as receiving so many incredible well wishes from all of you), we decided to disappear for a couple days to fresh air, sunshine and peace and quiet.

Driving in Kosovo is never a relaxing experience but we left early enough on Saturday with my projects very big SUV so we made it out to our mountain adventure launching city of Peje where we enjoyed a nice Machiotto outside in the run-down socialist hotel right next to the river. With the sun darting in and out of the clouds we only needed the welcomed t-shirt to catch some rays. From here we entered into the Ragove gorge which is the most beautiful drive in all of Kosovo. At least 1000 meter cliffs rising up on both sides with a raging river paralleling the very windy road which was even carved into and through the stone cliff faces. As Pranvera noted, thank God this was done during the Yugoslav era since nothing like this would be attempted these days.

Further up into the mountains to gorge widened into more of a canyon where we found a very large restaurant, resort where we had an average lunch outside staring up into the mountains with the sun barely balancing the canyon winds. No matter. Everything was perfect. The air, the mountains, the love of my life.

Anxious to get in a short afternoon hike we continued on till the end of the paved road where it turned into 28 kilometers of an incredibly beautiful dirt road with some serious size potholes and small river crossing that made me thankful I chose to drive our 'tank'. Listening to some fun tunes on the iPod we bounced our way all the way to the end of the track in the very small and sleepy 'ski-resort' of Boge. Essentially they have a single toe-rope life dragging its victims to the top of a big beginner hill. Since the snow at the lower elevations had melted it was hard to imagine what the skiing would actually look like. The scattering of houses revealed several lodge style hotels and a series of cabins for rent (all right near each other). We opted for 4 relatively new looking cabins up on the hill with much more privacy and better views. Problem is no one was home, no number to call, neighbors didn't know how to reach the owner and the one lodge who was told would have the answers claimed they had no idea who ran them but they had rooms open in their hotel (NOT).

Finally we found the local who had the keys and rented it out for the owner. Basic as they were one had dirty dishes in the sink and none were cleaned very well or stocked with anything from towels to toilet paper. No matter we made due with what we had and purchased a bottle of wine to keep us warm for the night, dropped our gear off and headed out and up the mountain. Since all the trees, for the most part, had been cleared in the valley it was very easy to look off in the distance and see where you wanted to go. Basically all options went up. So that is what we did. After about half way up the first peak we decided to take a lateral trail that would eventually loop us back into the village rather than a straight up and back. Not to mention it was already getting on the later side and a number of black clouds could be seen in the distance.

It was exactly as we hoped. Nothing...No one. No sound. Just us and mother nature. I couldn't be luckier that I found the only Kosovar that loves to hike and spend time in nature as I do. So after laying on the grass for awhile to take it in, we continued on through an ancient abandoned town on the mountain side and eventually got snowed out forcing us to take a trail descending off our mountain. But not finished yet we decided to head up a dirt track into another valley passing by an odd collection of empty houses, shacks, barns and many burned out frames left from the war. So sad to see the fighting extended even up to this beautiful and sacred space. Since we were just on the other side of mountain from Montenegro, Pranvera said most likely this route was used as an escape from the Serbs. Hard to imagine families leaving everything behind except what they could carry and trying to head over these during the winter time.

Finally a soft rain sent us returning to the cabin to clean and chill a bit before venturing out for a late meal. We made it cozy and lit the wood burning stove which would be needed to keep the place warm for the night. The second floor had the adults bedroom next to the 3 single kids bed room. We took the adult room:-) The balcony door afforded us a wonderful view that we enjoyed the next morning. Before we became too comfortable we wandered out into complete darkness and a slight mountain chill down to one of the cafeteria bright lodge restaurants that was only occupied by a high school class of kids. At least the place seemed lively and we had a wonderful fresh salad, fish from the rivers and a light baklava to finish off the feast. I was hoping for a nice post meal, moon-light stroll but the heavy rain forced us to jog slowly back to the cabin to bunker down for the night.

Everything would have been perfect with the rustic wood-burning smell and the nicely heated cabin, if it weren't for the winds. The gusts started to force the smoke back down the chimney and before too long we had to have all the doors and windows open so we could breath. As I ran upstairs to open the balcony doors as well Pranvera awoke from her nap on the sofa yelling my name and most likely freaking out since there was smoke everywhere. We finally aired everything out but the smell stuck like glue on all our clothes. As we ventured off to bed I put a towel under the door to keep the smoke out. BUT, it kept happening and pretty soon we had had to extinguish the fire and sleep with the open windows (so much for a warm cabin). Our heavy blankets kept us warm but lesson learned for next time (ie come when warmer).

Our short sleep was greeted with almost cloudless skies as we enjoyed the mountain high having fresh fruit and coffee outside. After some good laughs about the night before we grabbed out gear to summit another set of mountain peaks. Starting off on the road our target was the top of some towering rock cliffs that overlooked the valley we were in. Easier said than done since we ended up walking around the backside and had to head straight up the hillside to bushwhack our way through a beautiful pine forest before it opened up into another back-country valley and another set of peaks to climb up and over. Again we were able to keep our bearing and hike by sight which made it more adventurous. Almost no people again. Finally, we reached our destination to find a hut that must have been made by local (hunters or fugitives). The snow was much thicker in certain areas so we eventually made our way back down the mountain the road and strolled our way to the village. The drive back home was just as nice with enough time to have a nice lunch atop the sky tower we have been to before staring back into Ragove valley and saying goodbye to the clean air and mountains...until our next trip.

Engagement Proposal Recorded Live!

Since I was unable to share this special moment live with so many of you around the world, we recorded the proposal so you may join in the happiness we are both experiencing now.

The DATE has been set for May 9th in Kosovo. Anyone looking for an excuse to finally come out and see me, I tried to create a momentous occasion to justify the trip:-)

SHE SAID "YES!!!!"

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Today, Sunday April 6th 2008 at 10:30am Pranvera Recica said she would be my wife!!!! After only knowing each other for 9 months, there was never any doubt in either of our minds that after 37 years of looking for 'the one', we finally found each other (and who would have ever thought in Kosovo). I can't even begin to describe the feeling of knowing I will be able to spend the rest of your life with my best friend and to be so warmly accepted into such a large family (which I never had). True to Albanian tradition, when you marry here, you don't just marry your partner but the entire family. And this is why I decided to do the propose as I did.

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In preparing for the big day I had to secretly plan meetings with both her brothers to ask for their support in marrying their younger sister and for them to help me approach her father asking for his daughter's hand. Of course all of this went smoothly but I felt it was important to respect local customs and have the entire family in on the surprise. Since Pranvera and I have certainly talked about marriage I wanted this to be as much of a special day as possible. And instead of taking her away for a special romantic weekend somewhere I wanted the place to very special for the both of us and accessible by her family and friends. So I decided to propose in the very place we first kissed, which happened to be on a very late night walk in the middle of Pristina's only 'open space'. But as you can see from the pictures, this area has nothing but green weeds, rocky ground and scattered trash. Not exactly the best place to be romantic.

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So, I decided to build a garden along the walkway to surprise her and offer some color and beauty back to the place that I will forever hold dear to my heart. But in order to pull all the planning off I need the help of Laura, her great sister-in-law. So the day before on a cold gray rainy morning we went to visit the nursery out of the city and look over the limited plant selection they have since it is still 2 weeks really before planting season. None the less I was able to find 50 beautiful flowers (minus the sunflowers I wanted since they are her favorite) and we returned back to the city so I could show the landscapers where to install the garden. Minus the unforeseen truckload of dirt and labor I needed to hire, everything was set for Sunday. The trick was they needed to come back the same morning I proposed to her so that nobody would steal or damage the flowers before we got there. Thanks to the watchful eye of Laura, the garden was beautifully built and waited for our arrival.

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The second part of the equation was making sure Pranvera's mom, brothers, their wives and kids and her close friends were also there to come out and celebrate (if) she said yes. My close friend Molly and a cameraman I hired were also hiding behind the library pillars to run out once I got up off my knee.
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She never knew what hit her. Nor did I. I had told her we were meeting a business associate of mine for brunch across town which required us to cross our special place. It also helped encourage the both of us to dress up a bit for this unusual early morning Sunday stroll (thanks Roman). As we got close to the park I sent a final text for all to hide and we walked up to our path. Despite the fact that there were all these beautiful flowers there now and nowhere else in the entire area, it did not seem to phase Pranvera too much. Till I finally started to comment about how nice they looked and the irony that they happened to be in our special place. Still needing a bit more help I said that I had had them placed right here. And she said 'How did I know the Mayor to do this???'

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Without waiting for more explanation I started to fumble through my prepared romantic words but unfortunately was getting almost too choked up to get the words out. Before dropping to my knee she asked if we were on candid camera? NO, but we are on your families cameras and I as I opened the ring box, I proposed in Albanian. Her shock and flood of tears not only muffled her reply of YES (which I had to confirm later) but I also completely forgot to take the ring out of the box and put it on her!!! She had just accepted the ring in box which happened to be a special solid Jade stone ring I had picked up on my travels. Ironically the box was harder to find than the ring. I wanted the traditional black velvet ring box which does not exist in Kosovo. So after much searching and borrowing back a similar plain black necklace box I had given to her earlier, I happened to find a velvet box in my safe box that I have had for at least 15 years.
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So after rising to my feet and embracing each other, I issued the signal cheer for the entire family to come out from hiding and celebrate with us. I can say without doubt the happiest moment in my life. For my family and dear friends around the world that I wish so much could be here right now to celebrate this special time, I will be posting the video later this week and when we finally arrive stateside expect to receive an invite for a wedding celebration so you may meet my 'better half'. Much love to everyone!!!!

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