4 Day Albania Sampler

Finally we were able to exit Kosovo and for 4 short days forget about COVID and sample the absolute best that northern Albania has to offer. And ironically, because of the pandemic, we experienced it in a way almost no others have, empty. We were joined by Adi's best friends family from Scotland/Kosovo, the Reids, and fully appreciated both kids and adults having playmates. The weather was perfect/hot and the water perfectly clear and cool.

We began with a 3 hour drive to board our ferry on Komani lake which is a 2 hour ride through the most beautiful fjord-like lake in the region. Completely undeveloped but normally a zoo with shoulder to shoulder crowds partying during the summer tourist season. With less than 30 people and 8 cars, we were able to socially distance and enjoy the stunning scenery, silent breeze and crystal clear air. Unfortunately the serenity was quickly lost as we had to traverse a crumbling cliff-side road for hours before exiting the canyon on the other side to make it to Lake Shkodra where we were planning to glamp for the next 3 days. 

We camped here a year ago for the final Cub Scout trip but instead of 25 scouts and families with 24 hours of rain staying in tents, we had 2 families splitting a lodge enjoying perfect weather. Like the ferry, the site had no more than 6 other camping groups throughout their 60+ sites so we didn't wear or see others in masks. We were mostly the only ones at the beach, out on the pier swimming or enjoying the outdoor restaurant. The kids had full rein of playing soccer, boating, swimming, guns, tag, and the occasional outdoor gaming. The staff remembered us and we had unusually impeccable service with fresh fish, steaks or pork Adi's favorite egg bacon sandwiched on fresh bread and happy hour rolling into dinner and evening drinks more than it should.

Perfect sunsets settled us into relaxing nights with the kids sleeping in tents 2 of the 3 evenings with us old folks inside enjoying some peace and quite. But the loft set-up served as a fun inside fort for the first evening with non-stop stories and games well into the morning hours. And our return trip to Kosovo (on the  new mountain highway) was divided by a 3 hour lunch stop at the 5 star Michelin farm fresh organic restaurant Mrizi (ferry house). Our 4th visit here, every time better than the last with a non-stop flow of the tastiest, most elegantly presented meals one could ever imagine. The endless pathways among the forest tables (all eating outside now with masked staff), petting zoo, playgrounds and roaming geese packs fully entertained the kids while the wandering guitar and violinist entertained the adults. Almost all the ingredients are grown locally and we were able to wet our appetite with the homemade wine (and bring a 5 gallon jug back home with us). A truly magical and wonderful end to potentially our only summer vacation as the EU still remains closed to Americans and the Macedonian border has been shut again due the high case numbers in Kosovo. Our weekend escape was jolted back to reality as we waited in long lines as the border with the diaspora trying to leave EU to visit 'home' and everyone being stopped for temperature checks by PPE encased officers before being sent on our way back into the new norm (mask wearing in public has finally been mandated to try and get our case number back in the double digits).

We hope everyone is enjoying somehow your own summer escapes, if only for a moment, to recall what life will one day return to. Just hang in there!!!

Emerging from Lockdown

As is around the world, coming 'out' of lockdown is a slow process with many things happening too fast and the rates spiking back up. Kosovo was touted as one of the best examples of Europe but now we are one of the worse with a new government just wanting everything to 'open up'. Therefore, both the US and Kosovo are banned from entering the EU so our plans for driving to a beach holiday in Greece are now doubly on hold. Trying to operate on the safe side, we still spend most of our time at home and sorely miss dining out, movies or an occasional cocktail. But have had occasional exceptions like visiting the only sushi place that appears to implement new Covid safety measures. Or finding outdoor tables far away from others with minimal guests.

As Rea's daycare has implemented rather stringent new protocols, we opted to let her return to become a normal kid again and interact, play and learn with her friends. We have maintained a small social bubble with 3 other families so she has been having many play dates and Messenger calls and seems to be adapting to a new norm reasonably well. Adi graduated 4th grade virtually and was a great sport surviving 4 months of no physical school. He has kept up his guitar virtually but Rea lost interest in ballet dancing to a screen. But now with summer officially here (June was surprisingly rainy and cold), Rea is starting up with tennis and Adi joined a new soccer club. We have one of those above ground oversized bathtubs which the kids absolutely love so at least they are able to get a little flavor of 'the beach'.

They both finished out the Cub Scout program for the school year virtually and we partook in a virtual camping weekend (cooking and sleeping outside), Zoom skills and crafts Den meetings and a final graduation ceremony as they completed all the badges for the year.

Pranvera and I have gotten out on a couple major day hikes including an all day summit of Kosovo's tallest peak at 1700m and the well known 'Bear Sanctuary' circuit that we actually took from our house for about 20km. We dragged Adi on another one new Peja which he was less than happy about but we have to keep exposing them to activities without screens;-) We love the fresh air and beautiful scenery and it is just a great way to feel like everything is normal...

We planned for 2020 to be a big year of transition for us but not in this way (with Covid). Pranvera's project ends in Nov so I was on point to secure a new assignment, ideally in Asia, for us to relocate to. But with borders still closed, budgets tight and many of the jobs being put on hold, we are planning to now stay in Kosovo for at least 1 more school year. With Rea's school ending for her and us being very dissatisfied with Adi's school, we have decided to move them both to the international school supported by US Embassy, QSI. It is much smaller and less diverse than his current school ILG but has a much better curriculum, a brand new building and we are moving with 7 of Adi's best friends so they will all adapt easily. 

My consulting practice has dried up completely so I spend the days writing blogs, networking with virtual events/conferences, writing proposals and searching for the next best thing. Luckily with the feeling of summer finally sinking in and the kids home without schedules, the days quickly disappear one way or another. One great side-affect of Covid has been a regular reconnection with old friends for regularly scheduled catch-up coffees or cocktails. Pranvera continues to work full and long days at the office as her project enters the home stretch. I know she is ecstatic about the idea to return to being a stay at home mom (we'll see how long that lasts) to make up for lost time with the kids as we all figure out where and what next.

We hope all of you remain safe and sane and one of these days we'll be back on the planes coming for a visit. Till then, see you on zoom, webex, skype, messenger or blue jeans...