4 Day Albania Sampler

Finally we were able to exit Kosovo and for 4 short days forget about COVID and sample the absolute best that northern Albania has to offer. And ironically, because of the pandemic, we experienced it in a way almost no others have, empty. We were joined by Adi's best friends family from Scotland/Kosovo, the Reids, and fully appreciated both kids and adults having playmates. The weather was perfect/hot and the water perfectly clear and cool.

We began with a 3 hour drive to board our ferry on Komani lake which is a 2 hour ride through the most beautiful fjord-like lake in the region. Completely undeveloped but normally a zoo with shoulder to shoulder crowds partying during the summer tourist season. With less than 30 people and 8 cars, we were able to socially distance and enjoy the stunning scenery, silent breeze and crystal clear air. Unfortunately the serenity was quickly lost as we had to traverse a crumbling cliff-side road for hours before exiting the canyon on the other side to make it to Lake Shkodra where we were planning to glamp for the next 3 days. 

We camped here a year ago for the final Cub Scout trip but instead of 25 scouts and families with 24 hours of rain staying in tents, we had 2 families splitting a lodge enjoying perfect weather. Like the ferry, the site had no more than 6 other camping groups throughout their 60+ sites so we didn't wear or see others in masks. We were mostly the only ones at the beach, out on the pier swimming or enjoying the outdoor restaurant. The kids had full rein of playing soccer, boating, swimming, guns, tag, and the occasional outdoor gaming. The staff remembered us and we had unusually impeccable service with fresh fish, steaks or pork Adi's favorite egg bacon sandwiched on fresh bread and happy hour rolling into dinner and evening drinks more than it should.

Perfect sunsets settled us into relaxing nights with the kids sleeping in tents 2 of the 3 evenings with us old folks inside enjoying some peace and quite. But the loft set-up served as a fun inside fort for the first evening with non-stop stories and games well into the morning hours. And our return trip to Kosovo (on the  new mountain highway) was divided by a 3 hour lunch stop at the 5 star Michelin farm fresh organic restaurant Mrizi (ferry house). Our 4th visit here, every time better than the last with a non-stop flow of the tastiest, most elegantly presented meals one could ever imagine. The endless pathways among the forest tables (all eating outside now with masked staff), petting zoo, playgrounds and roaming geese packs fully entertained the kids while the wandering guitar and violinist entertained the adults. Almost all the ingredients are grown locally and we were able to wet our appetite with the homemade wine (and bring a 5 gallon jug back home with us). A truly magical and wonderful end to potentially our only summer vacation as the EU still remains closed to Americans and the Macedonian border has been shut again due the high case numbers in Kosovo. Our weekend escape was jolted back to reality as we waited in long lines as the border with the diaspora trying to leave EU to visit 'home' and everyone being stopped for temperature checks by PPE encased officers before being sent on our way back into the new norm (mask wearing in public has finally been mandated to try and get our case number back in the double digits).

We hope everyone is enjoying somehow your own summer escapes, if only for a moment, to recall what life will one day return to. Just hang in there!!!

Emerging from Lockdown

As is around the world, coming 'out' of lockdown is a slow process with many things happening too fast and the rates spiking back up. Kosovo was touted as one of the best examples of Europe but now we are one of the worse with a new government just wanting everything to 'open up'. Therefore, both the US and Kosovo are banned from entering the EU so our plans for driving to a beach holiday in Greece are now doubly on hold. Trying to operate on the safe side, we still spend most of our time at home and sorely miss dining out, movies or an occasional cocktail. But have had occasional exceptions like visiting the only sushi place that appears to implement new Covid safety measures. Or finding outdoor tables far away from others with minimal guests.

As Rea's daycare has implemented rather stringent new protocols, we opted to let her return to become a normal kid again and interact, play and learn with her friends. We have maintained a small social bubble with 3 other families so she has been having many play dates and Messenger calls and seems to be adapting to a new norm reasonably well. Adi graduated 4th grade virtually and was a great sport surviving 4 months of no physical school. He has kept up his guitar virtually but Rea lost interest in ballet dancing to a screen. But now with summer officially here (June was surprisingly rainy and cold), Rea is starting up with tennis and Adi joined a new soccer club. We have one of those above ground oversized bathtubs which the kids absolutely love so at least they are able to get a little flavor of 'the beach'.

They both finished out the Cub Scout program for the school year virtually and we partook in a virtual camping weekend (cooking and sleeping outside), Zoom skills and crafts Den meetings and a final graduation ceremony as they completed all the badges for the year.

Pranvera and I have gotten out on a couple major day hikes including an all day summit of Kosovo's tallest peak at 1700m and the well known 'Bear Sanctuary' circuit that we actually took from our house for about 20km. We dragged Adi on another one new Peja which he was less than happy about but we have to keep exposing them to activities without screens;-) We love the fresh air and beautiful scenery and it is just a great way to feel like everything is normal...

We planned for 2020 to be a big year of transition for us but not in this way (with Covid). Pranvera's project ends in Nov so I was on point to secure a new assignment, ideally in Asia, for us to relocate to. But with borders still closed, budgets tight and many of the jobs being put on hold, we are planning to now stay in Kosovo for at least 1 more school year. With Rea's school ending for her and us being very dissatisfied with Adi's school, we have decided to move them both to the international school supported by US Embassy, QSI. It is much smaller and less diverse than his current school ILG but has a much better curriculum, a brand new building and we are moving with 7 of Adi's best friends so they will all adapt easily. 

My consulting practice has dried up completely so I spend the days writing blogs, networking with virtual events/conferences, writing proposals and searching for the next best thing. Luckily with the feeling of summer finally sinking in and the kids home without schedules, the days quickly disappear one way or another. One great side-affect of Covid has been a regular reconnection with old friends for regularly scheduled catch-up coffees or cocktails. Pranvera continues to work full and long days at the office as her project enters the home stretch. I know she is ecstatic about the idea to return to being a stay at home mom (we'll see how long that lasts) to make up for lost time with the kids as we all figure out where and what next.

We hope all of you remain safe and sane and one of these days we'll be back on the planes coming for a visit. Till then, see you on zoom, webex, skype, messenger or blue jeans...

Life in Lockdown

Ironically when we have nothing but time, it has taken till now to finally publish a blog updating everyone on how we have been filling the time and trying to keep ourselves sane. As stressful as these days continue to be, we have tried to remember some of the good things that are coming out of this. I led an exercise with the kids' Scout Pack for each child to recall something positive because of this pandemic and Adi said there is less pollution on the earth while Rea said we get to spend more time as a family. As wonderful as that is, it has certainly pushed everyone's limits as we all have adapted to daddy becoming Rea's full time teacher to help her learn English letters, words and the numbers. Of course mixed in with arts and crafts, exercise, meals and playtime, all within the confines of our home. Luckily Adi's school went virtual right away but the first several weeks were very rough trying to learn the platforms, getting on-line with the video teaching sessions and trying to keep him from 'cheating' with a side game of Roblox between every lesson.

Unfortunately, the inability to travel and to conduct interviews or lead trainings has cancelled all my work contracts (thus affording me all the time to help the kids out with school and keep the house running). On the flipside, Pranvera's work has ramped up as she still leads her project and 15 person team from our home office being on video calls from 9am-7pm most days. At least now the kids can interupt her at will and zoom bomb her meetings, much to the delight of her clients and staff.

Kosovo was early on with the lockdown and the government has done a great job in keeping the numbers down with less than 500 infections and 25 deaths to date. However, this has meant only leaving the house for a 90 minute window each day to get food or medicine during your ID number time slot. No other outdoor activities or gatherings. Luckily, sine we live up in the hills, we have been able to get out on some isolated back country trails to get fresh air and enjoy the incredibly soothing sounds of nature and smell the unbelievably clean air. As much as we do appreciate this, Spring, being in full bloom, means my allergies are almost unbearable. For more than a month I have had the runny noise, itchy eyes and trouble breathing enough that I am on a nebulizer with steroids almost daily just so I can make it through the nights (photo below). This has been particularly stressful since we think it throws me into the high risk category for being extremely at risk for Covid since my lungs are already on overtime. Will have to see what 'getting back to normal' looks like as we supposedly emerge from quarantine next week.

We feel fortunate to ironically be in Kosovo during this time as we see everything unravel in the US. Our thoughts and prayers go out to all friends and family just trying to get through this and we are really trying to remain optimistic that we will all come out on the other side stronger and better. I feel that my chosen line of consulting work might not be able to return to what it was so will really start exploring more of what my next professional chapter may look like both in Kosovo and elsewhere so Pranvera can finally take a break after a 5 year marathon of leading judicial reforms for Kosovo.

All and all, amazing that this time has passed from Pranvera's birthday (2 nights before lockdown) to Rea's birthday to Easter.  Our days have passed with a very nonseasonal snowstorm, random afternoon naps, all our Cub Scout meetings on zoom,  Rea's ballet classes via video, date nights in the living room with kids movie night and slumber party upstairs, celebrating Rea's bday without the ability to purchase any presents or play with friends, workouts inside lifting pieces of furniture and sprinting up the 2 flights of stairs and all of this interupted by general goofiness in the yard. Not to mention setting up Skype's with old friends and having virtual happy hours with old time college buddies all at once (sad it took a pandemic to get these things to happen). The smartest thing we have done with all this 'time' was to kick off our quarantine by converting the playroom to Adi's bedroom on the second floor and to make their old bedroom Rea's princess room. They now have their own space and have been able to take a break when needed.

It has been nice to actually feel connected to many of you better now than during our previous life. Who knows what and for how long we will be adapting to 'opening up' but we hope that everyone continues to be safe and smart about staying healthy. And for those who have lost loved ones, our thoughts are with you and we hope our collective love and strength can help us all make it through this, together.