Finally we were able to exit Kosovo and for 4 short days forget about COVID and sample the absolute best that northern Albania has to offer. And ironically, because of the pandemic, we experienced it in a way almost no others have, empty. We were joined by Adi's best friends family from Scotland/Kosovo, the Reids, and fully appreciated both kids and adults having playmates. The weather was perfect/hot and the water perfectly clear and cool.
We began with a 3 hour drive to board our ferry on Komani lake which is a 2 hour ride through the most beautiful fjord-like lake in the region. Completely undeveloped but normally a zoo with shoulder to shoulder crowds partying during the summer tourist season. With less than 30 people and 8 cars, we were able to socially distance and enjoy the stunning scenery, silent breeze and crystal clear air. Unfortunately the serenity was quickly lost as we had to traverse a crumbling cliff-side road for hours before exiting the canyon on the other side to make it to Lake Shkodra where we were planning to glamp for the next 3 days.
We camped here a year ago for the final Cub Scout trip but instead of 25 scouts and families with 24 hours of rain staying in tents, we had 2 families splitting a lodge enjoying perfect weather. Like the ferry, the site had no more than 6 other camping groups throughout their 60+ sites so we didn't wear or see others in masks. We were mostly the only ones at the beach, out on the pier swimming or enjoying the outdoor restaurant. The kids had full rein of playing soccer, boating, swimming, guns, tag, and the occasional outdoor gaming. The staff remembered us and we had unusually impeccable service with fresh fish, steaks or pork Adi's favorite egg bacon sandwiched on fresh bread and happy hour rolling into dinner and evening drinks more than it should.
Perfect sunsets settled us into relaxing nights with the kids sleeping in tents 2 of the 3 evenings with us old folks inside enjoying some peace and quite. But the loft set-up served as a fun inside fort for the first evening with non-stop stories and games well into the morning hours. And our return trip to Kosovo (on the new mountain highway) was divided by a 3 hour lunch stop at the 5 star Michelin farm fresh organic restaurant Mrizi (ferry house). Our 4th visit here, every time better than the last with a non-stop flow of the tastiest, most elegantly presented meals one could ever imagine. The endless pathways among the forest tables (all eating outside now with masked staff), petting zoo, playgrounds and roaming geese packs fully entertained the kids while the wandering guitar and violinist entertained the adults. Almost all the ingredients are grown locally and we were able to wet our appetite with the homemade wine (and bring a 5 gallon jug back home with us). A truly magical and wonderful end to potentially our only summer vacation as the EU still remains closed to Americans and the Macedonian border has been shut again due the high case numbers in Kosovo. Our weekend escape was jolted back to reality as we waited in long lines as the border with the diaspora trying to leave EU to visit 'home' and everyone being stopped for temperature checks by PPE encased officers before being sent on our way back into the new norm (mask wearing in public has finally been mandated to try and get our case number back in the double digits).
We hope everyone is enjoying somehow your own summer escapes, if only for a moment, to recall what life will one day return to. Just hang in there!!!
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