First Boarding Run of the Season

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Having been back almost a full 2 weeks in Kosovo it was already time to get out and enjoy a 3 day Martin Luther King holiday. See, the great thing about working for a US government sponsored project in another country is you get twice the holidays. Both local and American and since Pranvera also works on a USAID funded program our vacation schedules match perfectly.

So not wanting to make a big deal about traveling but yet waiting to get out and enjoy some new scenery, we decided to go right next door to Macedonia where she does not need a visa, I can take a project vehicle to get us there, and we don't have to do any advance reservations or planning since worst case, we just drive several hours back to arrive in our homes in Pristina. I think this flexibility alone makes traveling and (not) planning with Pranvera even more enjoyable since we have no expectations to manage: just go with the flow. This was also going to be my first time back on the snow board for the season and I have been hearing so many stories about the Kosovo ski mountain we normally go to (huge lines of everyone pushing to get on, no power and your general chaos) that I thought it would be nice to check out the 2 resorts in Macedonia I had heard about. The main concern I had was we had just had an unusually warm week where only snow on the very highest of peaks could be seen. But since the southern side of the mountain range where the resorts are is a different climate, we went for it.

Within 3 hours on an early Sat morning we arrived at our first place known as Popova Shapka which is almost completely Albanian. As we drove through the closest large town Tetova, we were encased in solid fog which continued half-way up the mountain not boding well for my first day of 'carving'. But then we broke through it to see a cloudless, perfect blue sky with a nice warm sun to delight. The sea of fog covered the entire valley almost forming a cotton lake. Luckily we were going to enjoy our holiday in style...Upon arriving to a full resort I was able to purchase a half day pass for under 10 euros. Which is lucky since I only got 2 runs worth for my 10 euros. To begin with the line of the main lift was painfully long, but at least it was a line. If this was Brezervica there would be mad chaos of pushing and cutting in line till you finally popped out the other side onto a lift chair. So after a half hour of waiting with Pranvera she went on her own way to cafe (yes it is a verb out here), read and hike while catching as much of a tan as possible. I on the other hand was on my way to the top of what was actually a relatively small beginner hill. And from this point you were able to take one of 3 tow ropes up to the highest peak and then ski down any number of beginner/intermediate runs.

So, for any of you boarders out there, I'm sure you can relate. Tow ropes SUCK!!!!! They require us boarders to slam the sit bar in between our legs only to get yanked as the coil operated device starts to pull you up the hill. Since we only have 1 foot in the binding using the other to balance, it is quite common to catch an edge which causes you to fall, losing your chance to get up the hill (which did occur on my first attempt). And if you do not fall you are completely stressed out about not falling AND having to constantly adjust the bar in between your legs so it doesn't bruise your thigh too bad. Since these devices are not very common in the US anymore I never even considered the fact that most resorts out in this region (except Kosovo's Brezervica) would have nothing but these devices to make us sterile.

So two runs later of not so great snow and janking tow ropes, I decided that I could back down to the base and wait in another long line to do these easy slopes or just find my girlfriend for an afternoon of playing in the sun and snow. And fortunately for us I had to return to the car to notice I had left the lights on the vehicle. Unfortunately Pranvera had the keys and she was already atop one of the peaks walking around checking on possible hotel rooms. And of course she ran into one of her closest friends and his family. Hating to break up her party I had to text her to return to the car quickly to save us from needing a 'jump'. Little did I anticipate that she would slide down half a mountain and hop/run softly on her still recovering knee to toss me the keys halfway down the street. We saved the battery and we then were able to enjoy a beer and pizza on a terrace with the warm sun, clean crisp air (big thing for us from Kosovo) and beautiful mountain scenery.

Stuffed we decided to walk it off back up the mountain. With only our hiking books we had to walk in the 'cat tracks' left by the snow machines that comb the mountains. The higher up we got the stronger the wind, the less air to breath and slightly disappearing sun as it was beginning to set behind some mountains. I think we would have still continued up but we came across a pack of dogs that completely freaked Pranvera out and forced a retreat back to the base. Now I know why most folks out here don't think of dogs as pets...

Exhausted and wet we climbed into the truck to wind our way back down the mountain into the foggy sea which was even worse then when we arrived. Since all the resorts were full, and overpriced 3 star communist monstrosities, we returned to the industrial town of Tetova to find something. The first place was a dive and what we expected. Even locating the hotel was a feat since we could barely see beyond the hood. Praying and searching for another place Pranvera somehow spotted the Tivoli which was a brand new 4 star hotel with very nice rooms and bathrooms. Without thinking twice we fired up the heat in our room and crashed for a nap. Waking to the rumbling of my stomach, I encouraged us to venture out to feed. After walking on the main strip still not being able to really see anything we returned to the hotels restaurant and cafe which was the most rocking place in the town. Packed except for our table we had a very good local meal and before I passed out while eating from exhaustion, Pranvera dragged me upstairs for a very nice and long rest. Not until eating again at the same table for breakfast did I feel fully recharged. I forgot how much boarding and the altitude can take out of you.

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So on day 2 we were off to the real resort, Mavrovo which is one heck of a big ski resort about 80 km from Skopje. Again, another picture perfect day and an extremely pleasant drive all the way around a very low lake to arrive at the packed base of the mountain. Lift passes were double the price but triple the fun. Everything was much bigger, better maintained and more European. Pranvera was able to join me on the main lift ride to arrive at the main mountain chalet where tons of people were just hanging out sunning, eating, drinking and playing on sledges. Of course my luck to notice every other lift was a tow rope but not having any more options I sucked it up and was determined to master them. Pranvera took her book and boots and hiked several of her own peaks while reading and again, suntanning.

Unfortunately all the runs I found were at best hard intermediate. I had the most luck taking several tow ropes to end up on the furthest mountain with the shortest lines and steepest stuff. Found the side of a mountain with fresh powder (a bit crusty) but I was able to make fresh tracks. Now this is what I'm talking about. Did 10 or so runs back there with only 10 minute life lines. Then made my way over to the farthest peak which had a very steep and challenging tow rope but good good fun. Since my groin was pretty bruised at this point I finally made my way back to the lodge to find my girl, also realizing I hadn't eaten all day (but the places were no longer serving food). As we decided to descend the mountain I got a couple more runs in and did the longest on which was down the black slope on the front side. Could have been a good run but due to the warm weather there was not much snow and what was left was mixed with ice, rocks and dirt. To say the least this was not enjoyable to come down but arriving in one piece I felt content and quite soar that I had re-initiated back into the snow season.

Now all we had to do was to find another place to sleep. Well, since this was a Sunday night we had NO problem. Every place we had called for the Sat as well was booked and prices well into the 120-150 euro range which was insane for the relative comforts they offered. So instead we headed towards a very nice new looking structure that was completely empty except us and we got a fantastic wood paneled, flat screen Jacuzzi tub room for only 80 euros with a complete custom ordered breakfast. The bed was perfect with these huge comforters and fresh carpet. They had only been open 3 weeks so we were one of the first to use the place. The highlight was the new sauna room right across the hall that we had all to our selves. Aside from almost passing out we jumped from the Jacuzzi to the sauna and back. Isn't this the only way to reward a full day of skiing?

Almost. I still hadn't eaten and as we quickly discovered the town was pretty much empty and closed now that the weekend was over. After trying several places we discovered on open serving food (kind of). I should have order the fresh fish and Pranvera did but instead it took 3 different times for them to bring me a small plate of pork wrapped cheese and cold french fries. At least I was too tired to really care to much. Watching some old french/english movie we faded off for another wonderful mountain air sleep.

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For our final day I decided to give my shoulder and calf muscles a rest and we hiked our way around the resort hills for several hours in the warm sun just enjoying ourselves. We decided to drive back via Skopje to do some basic grocery shopping and our token stop at McDonald's. It was nice to arrive back in Pristina with some daylight left to clean-up and prepare for a proper date night out. Pranvera made reservations at one of the oldest traditional Albanian restaurants offering a set menu including Riki and wine. The salads, main dish and dessert were a perfect way for us to celebrate our 6 month anniversary. Time certainly flies when you're having fun...