First Boarding Run of the Season

.

Having been back almost a full 2 weeks in Kosovo it was already time to get out and enjoy a 3 day Martin Luther King holiday. See, the great thing about working for a US government sponsored project in another country is you get twice the holidays. Both local and American and since Pranvera also works on a USAID funded program our vacation schedules match perfectly.

So not wanting to make a big deal about traveling but yet waiting to get out and enjoy some new scenery, we decided to go right next door to Macedonia where she does not need a visa, I can take a project vehicle to get us there, and we don't have to do any advance reservations or planning since worst case, we just drive several hours back to arrive in our homes in Pristina. I think this flexibility alone makes traveling and (not) planning with Pranvera even more enjoyable since we have no expectations to manage: just go with the flow. This was also going to be my first time back on the snow board for the season and I have been hearing so many stories about the Kosovo ski mountain we normally go to (huge lines of everyone pushing to get on, no power and your general chaos) that I thought it would be nice to check out the 2 resorts in Macedonia I had heard about. The main concern I had was we had just had an unusually warm week where only snow on the very highest of peaks could be seen. But since the southern side of the mountain range where the resorts are is a different climate, we went for it.

Within 3 hours on an early Sat morning we arrived at our first place known as Popova Shapka which is almost completely Albanian. As we drove through the closest large town Tetova, we were encased in solid fog which continued half-way up the mountain not boding well for my first day of 'carving'. But then we broke through it to see a cloudless, perfect blue sky with a nice warm sun to delight. The sea of fog covered the entire valley almost forming a cotton lake. Luckily we were going to enjoy our holiday in style...Upon arriving to a full resort I was able to purchase a half day pass for under 10 euros. Which is lucky since I only got 2 runs worth for my 10 euros. To begin with the line of the main lift was painfully long, but at least it was a line. If this was Brezervica there would be mad chaos of pushing and cutting in line till you finally popped out the other side onto a lift chair. So after a half hour of waiting with Pranvera she went on her own way to cafe (yes it is a verb out here), read and hike while catching as much of a tan as possible. I on the other hand was on my way to the top of what was actually a relatively small beginner hill. And from this point you were able to take one of 3 tow ropes up to the highest peak and then ski down any number of beginner/intermediate runs.

So, for any of you boarders out there, I'm sure you can relate. Tow ropes SUCK!!!!! They require us boarders to slam the sit bar in between our legs only to get yanked as the coil operated device starts to pull you up the hill. Since we only have 1 foot in the binding using the other to balance, it is quite common to catch an edge which causes you to fall, losing your chance to get up the hill (which did occur on my first attempt). And if you do not fall you are completely stressed out about not falling AND having to constantly adjust the bar in between your legs so it doesn't bruise your thigh too bad. Since these devices are not very common in the US anymore I never even considered the fact that most resorts out in this region (except Kosovo's Brezervica) would have nothing but these devices to make us sterile.

So two runs later of not so great snow and janking tow ropes, I decided that I could back down to the base and wait in another long line to do these easy slopes or just find my girlfriend for an afternoon of playing in the sun and snow. And fortunately for us I had to return to the car to notice I had left the lights on the vehicle. Unfortunately Pranvera had the keys and she was already atop one of the peaks walking around checking on possible hotel rooms. And of course she ran into one of her closest friends and his family. Hating to break up her party I had to text her to return to the car quickly to save us from needing a 'jump'. Little did I anticipate that she would slide down half a mountain and hop/run softly on her still recovering knee to toss me the keys halfway down the street. We saved the battery and we then were able to enjoy a beer and pizza on a terrace with the warm sun, clean crisp air (big thing for us from Kosovo) and beautiful mountain scenery.

Stuffed we decided to walk it off back up the mountain. With only our hiking books we had to walk in the 'cat tracks' left by the snow machines that comb the mountains. The higher up we got the stronger the wind, the less air to breath and slightly disappearing sun as it was beginning to set behind some mountains. I think we would have still continued up but we came across a pack of dogs that completely freaked Pranvera out and forced a retreat back to the base. Now I know why most folks out here don't think of dogs as pets...

Exhausted and wet we climbed into the truck to wind our way back down the mountain into the foggy sea which was even worse then when we arrived. Since all the resorts were full, and overpriced 3 star communist monstrosities, we returned to the industrial town of Tetova to find something. The first place was a dive and what we expected. Even locating the hotel was a feat since we could barely see beyond the hood. Praying and searching for another place Pranvera somehow spotted the Tivoli which was a brand new 4 star hotel with very nice rooms and bathrooms. Without thinking twice we fired up the heat in our room and crashed for a nap. Waking to the rumbling of my stomach, I encouraged us to venture out to feed. After walking on the main strip still not being able to really see anything we returned to the hotels restaurant and cafe which was the most rocking place in the town. Packed except for our table we had a very good local meal and before I passed out while eating from exhaustion, Pranvera dragged me upstairs for a very nice and long rest. Not until eating again at the same table for breakfast did I feel fully recharged. I forgot how much boarding and the altitude can take out of you.

.

So on day 2 we were off to the real resort, Mavrovo which is one heck of a big ski resort about 80 km from Skopje. Again, another picture perfect day and an extremely pleasant drive all the way around a very low lake to arrive at the packed base of the mountain. Lift passes were double the price but triple the fun. Everything was much bigger, better maintained and more European. Pranvera was able to join me on the main lift ride to arrive at the main mountain chalet where tons of people were just hanging out sunning, eating, drinking and playing on sledges. Of course my luck to notice every other lift was a tow rope but not having any more options I sucked it up and was determined to master them. Pranvera took her book and boots and hiked several of her own peaks while reading and again, suntanning.

Unfortunately all the runs I found were at best hard intermediate. I had the most luck taking several tow ropes to end up on the furthest mountain with the shortest lines and steepest stuff. Found the side of a mountain with fresh powder (a bit crusty) but I was able to make fresh tracks. Now this is what I'm talking about. Did 10 or so runs back there with only 10 minute life lines. Then made my way over to the farthest peak which had a very steep and challenging tow rope but good good fun. Since my groin was pretty bruised at this point I finally made my way back to the lodge to find my girl, also realizing I hadn't eaten all day (but the places were no longer serving food). As we decided to descend the mountain I got a couple more runs in and did the longest on which was down the black slope on the front side. Could have been a good run but due to the warm weather there was not much snow and what was left was mixed with ice, rocks and dirt. To say the least this was not enjoyable to come down but arriving in one piece I felt content and quite soar that I had re-initiated back into the snow season.

Now all we had to do was to find another place to sleep. Well, since this was a Sunday night we had NO problem. Every place we had called for the Sat as well was booked and prices well into the 120-150 euro range which was insane for the relative comforts they offered. So instead we headed towards a very nice new looking structure that was completely empty except us and we got a fantastic wood paneled, flat screen Jacuzzi tub room for only 80 euros with a complete custom ordered breakfast. The bed was perfect with these huge comforters and fresh carpet. They had only been open 3 weeks so we were one of the first to use the place. The highlight was the new sauna room right across the hall that we had all to our selves. Aside from almost passing out we jumped from the Jacuzzi to the sauna and back. Isn't this the only way to reward a full day of skiing?

Almost. I still hadn't eaten and as we quickly discovered the town was pretty much empty and closed now that the weekend was over. After trying several places we discovered on open serving food (kind of). I should have order the fresh fish and Pranvera did but instead it took 3 different times for them to bring me a small plate of pork wrapped cheese and cold french fries. At least I was too tired to really care to much. Watching some old french/english movie we faded off for another wonderful mountain air sleep.

.

For our final day I decided to give my shoulder and calf muscles a rest and we hiked our way around the resort hills for several hours in the warm sun just enjoying ourselves. We decided to drive back via Skopje to do some basic grocery shopping and our token stop at McDonald's. It was nice to arrive back in Pristina with some daylight left to clean-up and prepare for a proper date night out. Pranvera made reservations at one of the oldest traditional Albanian restaurants offering a set menu including Riki and wine. The salads, main dish and dessert were a perfect way for us to celebrate our 6 month anniversary. Time certainly flies when you're having fun...

Christmas & New Years in US

Perfect! This was a far cry from wandering around a cold Turkey by myself last year. I was surrounded by warm weather, warm households, warm friends and the warm spirit of the holidays. And despite the fact that I was in sunny LA for Christmas with no snow to be found anywhere, I actually appreciated the overdone decadence and outrageous commercialism of Christmas that normally turns my stomach. I only needed to tolerate it for 6 days verses the standard 6 weeks:-)

Of course the trip home was long and exhausting with the standard overnight in London switching in between two airports. Even though I had the pleasure of flying direct then to LA I happened to notice that my travel agent had booked me next to New York instead of DC. After trying to negotiate a ticket change for a week I ended up having to buy a new one-way flight and then take a bus to fly back out of JFK. Fortunately this afforded me the opportunity to hang with one of my best friends Carol for an afternoon before returning to Kosovo.

After readjusting to a new time zone and reconnecting with my family who was staying with my sister and a hotel, we spent our first day out in shopping hell at 'The Grove' enjoying the 80F, sunny sky and perfect walking weather to window shop, listen to Christmas carols and enjoy a wonderful outdoor lunch. Now why can't I ever get posted to a nice warm place like this? Of course the highlight had to have been the home cooked Christmas Eve dinner and the gay Christmas Eve Carol Service we attended in Hollywood. Complete with the transsexuals, goth couples, immigrants, homeless and other folks of all color. Pure LA with wonderful singing and a very touching candle-lit Silent Night closing song.

It's funny how the older I get the less willing I am to wake up early to rip open presents. I'm not sure if being a small kid makes it seem as if there is an endless sea of presents or in our older age we are actually getting much less (I'd bet on the later). Not to mention that most times I am traveling now for 1-2 days to get to see family and friends and either can't travel with many gifts or am in a place that doesn't have much to offer (Kosovo?). None the less just the spirit and tradition is magical. My sister continues to go over the top in setting up a real huge tree, baking cookies, having Carol music, stockings hanging from the cabinet (she is without a chimney), placing lights on the balcony and lighting fragrance candles. I love seeing the family ornaments with photos of us when we were four or other historical trinkets all about. And I'm not sure if it is just my family or does everyone place cards throughout the tree so it looks almost as if it was brought to us by Hallmark?

Armed with fruitcake and coffee we began to delicately unwrap the gifts as if to fully cherish the moment (remember when it was a race to see how many presents you could rip through in the least amount of time?). Of course the ubiquitous gift cards and cash are the most practical but I was blessed by some fashionable clothes, travel related items and reading material. Wish I still got Lego's to play with;-)

Our afternoon was spent eating a spectacular 4 course set menu at a 5-star hotel on Santa Monica beach. The food was done up in eclectic LA style with the crowd appropriately representing southern California with everything from 3 piece Armani suits to flip flops and shorts. It seems the richer or more popular you are the worse you can dress (and people actually think it is cool). And according to my families tradition, we went to see a movie that afternoon and what better way to see the amazing 'Charlie Wilson's War' than in the largest, premier theater in LA. I haven't see a movie in a cinema in so long I almost forgot how big and encasing they are. Shocked by a ticket price of $14 each but every now and then you just have to do it (if you have access to one;-)




Trying to get as much Americana as I could my sister got us tickets to the LA Kings hockey game. A sport we all love to watch live and in the new stadium it was a spectacle. The opening looked much like that of a rock concert with video, lights, smoke and thunderous music. And each period break that provided some kind of random entertainment on the ice, including a human ball roll where these guys tried to roll from one side to the next intercepting their opponents in the process.

The beauty about LA is that I have a handful of close friends out there from various stages of my life; first job, college, grad school, living in LA and traveling overseas. I was able to grab at least a meal with most of them and tell the same tales of Kosovo and Pranvera. Amazing how reconnecting with people who know you better than you know yourself helps recharge the spirit and reminds me to appreciate what a wonderful life I have being able to cross paths with such great people.

And before I realized it I had landed in DC to stay with my best friend Andrew who I hadn't seen for over a year/half. Crashing on his air mattress in the middle of his apartment/office was quite interesting and much colder that the West coast. Fortunately my insanely busy schedule had me up and out of the apartment before any of his employees arrived. My first day was spent entirely with my cousin and his girls. Taking advantage of the nice warm weather we spent it down at the mall walking all around trying to both ice skate and go up the monument but both were too full. We had a nice lunch in China town and it was just so fun to play Uncle to this beautiful 4 and 9 year old. I miss them so much while in Kosovo but at least I can play with Pranvera's 9 year old niece.




And then it was time to ring in the New Year! Went to a friend's party at Tryst with about 250 other friends. It was a wonderfully connected group of people all in good spirits enjoying a bit too much to drink. I ran into some old friends who did not know I was back in town and generally had a great time catching up, dancing and just appreciating DC. In the heart of Adams Morgan it was quite a scene as usual to walk home with all the drunken chaos.

Fortunately New Years Day was spent collecting the pieces from the night before and Andrew and I had a late brunch before I headed off to spend the rest of a sunny chilly day with my dear friend Susanna from my days in Jordan. We walked the entire city laughing and telling stories of the events from the past year. Our wanderings lead us to the Georgetown riverfront where I was reminded of the wealth we have in certain parts of the city. I enjoyed another strategic meal of onion soup shortening my list of must eat (mostly unhealthy) meals before I leave the US followed by watching 'The Kite runner'. Again, another spot-on Afghanistan movie equally as impressive as the book. As if this day wasn't complete enough I joined my cousin at his apartment for some home-made chili and football before retiring to my floating bed. Is this America or what?

From this point forward the remainder of my 'vacation' was a blur spent seeing a never ending series of doctors and development companies interviewing for potential project work after Kosovo. The summary version is that I was told I must return to the US for extensive and regular rehab work if I want my shoulder to ever get better. Conversely the interviews went very well and most companies said they believed there could be a good match to work on future field projects. Time will tell for both.

Evenings were spent grabbing a drink with as many friends as possible in the many new various bars and restaurants. DC continues to explode and there are so many new places right around my home that I look forward to being able to explore them first-hand one day. Speaking of which I paid a routine call to the condo to meet my lovely tenants who have been taking such good care of it. I tried to clean the furnace and fix the fireplace while checking out the general wear and tear. Minimal and a great relief to know not much will have to be done to get it ready for either my return or another tenant.

I was able to squeeze in one last half day playing with the girls before spending my last night with a close grad school friend who came in from Philly just for the night. Again, wonderful to see the contrast of how with the same education he runs his own company and has a wife, 1 year old and dog whereas I am out trying to do good in Kosovo. And each one of us thinking of how great the other ones life is...

And like that I was sitting on the Chinatown bus barrelling my way to NYC to wait for 6 hours till my flight departed for London. A royal pain in the ass screw-up from my travel agent that afforded me 6 wonderful hours with Carol. She met me at Penn Station with a car (who drives in New York) and we had a wonderful lunch, walked the Village, grabbed the perfect NY cup of Joe and stopped by her apartment for a quite peak. But the $22 charge for 15 minutes of parking was not worth the investment so we just made our way out to JFK. Which was a good thing because I have never seen lines so long. To the point that they actually called us out of line since our departure time was getting close. And unfortunately acting as non-yoga like as possible I jumped to the front of the line to make sure I was ticketed and made it through security to get on that plane.

Also a very close call changing airports in London since 2 of the shuttle buses just didn't show. Fortunately there were no lines and I ran into several friends who were also on their way back to Kosovo from Holiday. Without a doubt my homecoming to Pranvera was the highlight of the trip. Being apart for over 2 weeks we had so much to catch up on and a ton of late Christmas presents to exchange which I had brought in my suitcase. Kosovo has been extremely foggy and muddy since I arrived but I'm already back into the routine and preparing to do as much work (and play) as I can for my remaining 6 months.